Aglet

That little plastic thing on the end of your shoe lace.

Buff

To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed

before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting

A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or Texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the

lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted(pulled) onto the board and cemented to the

insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet

A non-woven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with

application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for  heel counter reinforcement on really cheap shoes.

CM EVA

Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set. Nike likes to call theirs “Phylon” it is the same stuff what ever you call it.

Collar

The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway

A color/material combination.   A model of a shoe may have many colorways.

Cosmo

The Brand name of a common non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material.  Used in all types

of shoes it provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.

Counter or heel counter

The back/heel of the shoe. Can also refer to the internal heel counter, injection molded plastic or

plastic infused material used to stiffen the heel of a shoe. Most shoes have some type of heel counter.   

Cutting

Traditionally called 'clicking'. There is an art to cutting leather due to the nature of the material - grain,

blemishes, tightness etc. Cutting is done by hand with curved hand knives, or with a beam press

with shaped press knives to the required pattern.

Eyelet

A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay

The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

EVA

Ethylene vinyl acetate is the copolymer of ethylene and vinyl acetate. The weight percent vinyl acetate

usually varies from 10 to 40%, with the remainder being ethylene.  The most common foam used for

shoe  cushioning. EVA can be hot pressed or cold pressed can can be made in any color in a range

of hardnesses.

Insole Board

A paper based board used to provide structure inside a shoe.  For example, a stiff hiking boot will

have a thick lasting board.

Last

Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe. can be made of wood, plastic or metal. 

Different types of shoes will have different lasts.  A basket ball shoe last is very different from a high

heel shoe last. 

Lasting

The process of stretching the pre-assembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin

The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping

the insole board.

Linings of a shoe

1. Quarter Lining: horseshoe shape around back part of shoe

2. Vamp Lining: inside upper of forepart and toe of shoe

3. Sock Lining: covering all OR part of the top surface of the insole

Midsole

The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort

and support. WIll be made of EVA or PU foam.

Outsole

The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay

An upper part which is over another part.

Padding

Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning

and improve fit. Usually this will be polyurethane of latex foam.

Pattern

The design of the shoes cut parts.  Just like clothing.  The shoe pattern is fitted to the last.

Designer and developers often make pattern corrections when creating a new shoe.

Pattern cutting

Sectional patterns are produced for the uppers, linings, insoles, heels, soles, stiffeners, backers and

oe puffs. The lasting allowance is added. The materials used in making the shoes are cut from

these working patterns

PU (upper material)

PU (short for polyurethane) upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven

or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.  PU can come in thousands of different colors

and textures.

PU

Poly-Urethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface.

Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover

A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter

The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

Skive

Buffing or grinding away the edge of a material, such as leather or a lasting board, this will reduce

bumps and wrinkles in the finished shoe.

SKU

Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway.

Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting

A lasting process where the insole board or Strobel sock  (usually canvas or non-woven) is stitched

around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

Stitch and Turn (seam)

A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Strobel Sock or board

The strobel is the fabric or non-woven material used to finish the bottom of a shoe upper.  The worker

uses a strobel machine to make a strobel stitch to attach the strobel board to the upper.  I think it was

invented by a guy named Strobel?

Toe Cap

Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue

Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the

bottom of the throat.

TPU

Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and

components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)

Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh

type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Underlay

A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper

The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp

Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.